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For years, retinol has consistently been one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. Part of a family of vitamin A derivatives that include other retinoids, such as retinal and tretinoin, retinol offers incredible benefits that range from reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles to treating acne breakouts.
Despite its high-achieving skincare status, retinol typically comes with one major caveat: Don’t use it during the day, when skin is privy to sun exposure. But why — and what happens when retinol and UV rays do mix? Whether you're new to retinol or looking to optimize your current regimen, read on to get the facts and tips to keep your skin radiant, youthful, and protected, day or night.
Understanding Retinol and Its Effects
While some commonly used retinoids, like tretinoin and tazarotene, require a prescription, retinol is readily available over the counter in the United States. It works by increasing skin cell production (also known as proliferation), exfoliating skin, and increasing collagen production. These attributes help reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, giving way to fresher skin with a firm, plump look.
Beyond anti-aging, retinol can also be hugely beneficial for acne-prone skin. Breakouts often occur when dead skin cells, oil, and debris build up and clog the pores. Retinol prevents clogged pores, which eventually leads to clearer, less congested skin with regular use. Sometimes new retinol users will experience a brief "retinol purge" as skin adjusts and residual buildup is brought to the surface. Retinol can also visibly reduce scarring and hyperpigmentation left behind by acne.
In addition to combatting breakouts and restoring firmness, retinol is an excellent product for treating dark spots and wrinkles. Many people experience an uneven buildup of melanin due to sun damage, which manifests as dark spots. As we age, wrinkles begin when the middle layer of your skin starts to thin. Topical use of retinol can lighten sun spots and makes the skin more elastic by slowing down collagen degradation.
Dispelling Myths About Retinol and Sun Exposure
If you’ve ever spoken to a dermatologist or esthetician about retinol or read the directions on a product label, you’ll know that the general guideline is to limit retinol to nighttime use. Yes, retinol can increase your sensitivity to sun exposure, particularly within your first few weeks of use, but the prevalent belief that using retinol during the day is a recipe for skin damage is somewhat overblown.
The bigger concern about using retinol during the day is that sun exposure deactivates the active ingredients, which makes the product less effective. Because UV degrades vitamin A, retinol is still best used at night, but there is no significant risk in wearing retinol in the sun .
Expert Tips for Protecting Your Skin
Sun protection is always essential, whether you wear retinol during the day or at night. Prepping your skin for everyday sun exposure is the greatest defense against aging.
Here are some basic tips on sun protection that everyone should know:
- The best way to protect your skin is to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day. This sunscreen needs to be at least SPF 30 or higher to be effective, and (unless you’re spending most daylight hours indoors and away from windows) applying once in the morning isn’t enough.
- If you are outside for the day, be sure to reapply sunscreen at least every two hours.
- SPF products lose effectiveness when they expire, so check expiration dates and only use products within those dates.
- As you enjoy summer activities, note whether your sunscreen is water-resistant or waterproof.
- Water resistance is just that: It continues to work if you are sweating or in a humid climate, but it will not keep you protected while taking a dip in a lake.
- Use waterproof sunscreen for any swimming or water activity (paddleboarding, boating) where you are either submerged or regularly sprayed with water.
- To truly keep your skin protected, try to limit sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., when the UV is the strongest. If you're out during that time, be diligent with your sunscreen reapplication, throw on a floppy sun hat, and spend as much time in the shade as possible.
- If you want to go the extra mile, consider UPF clothing.
Even with diligent sunscreen application, hats, and shade during these summer months, your skin will still need TLC. Make sure to moisturize regularly to minimize and avoid irritation. If you find your skin is on the sensitive side, it may be worth adjusting your retinol frequency and concentration. Rather than applying it both morning and night, try making it part of your nightly routine in the summer. If your skin can tolerate it, you can add it back into your morning routine when the weather cools and you are spending more time inside.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happens if you use retinol while out in the sun?
Unless you're just starting to use retinol in your skincare routine, there's typically no excessive sensitivity to UV rays. However, during the first few weeks of using retinol, your skin might be a bit more sensitive.
Should you stop using retinol in the summer?
There’s no need to ditch your retinol during the summer: Just make sure you're using sunscreen, wearing hats, and avoiding direct sun exposure. Using retinol at night is also a fantastic option to keep your skin protected and glowing.
Can you put retinol on a sunburn?
No, retinol and sunburns are a bad combination. Applying retinol to sunburned skin will only cause more irritation. Wait until your sunburn has completely healed before reintroducing retinol to your skincare routine.
Retinol is a powerful tool in your anti-aging skincare arsenal. Whether you use retinol or not, proper sunscreen and UV protection are necessary year-round, especially in the summer. If you want to add retinol to your routine, check out HydroPeptide retinol products, including Retinol Routine Booster and Retinol Eye Renewal.
As always, it’s essential to check in with your dermatologist for personalized advice when adding something new to your skincare regimen. Most importantly, find a sunscreen you love and use it religiously. Our sunscreen quiz can help you discover the perfect formula for you.
