Understanding the Different Forms of Vitamin C in Skincare: What Makes Each One Effective

Understanding the Different Forms of Vitamin C in Skincare: What Makes Each One Effective

Posted by Sophia Goldberg on

When it comes to brightening your skin, reducing the look of fine lines, and boosting collagen production, vitamin C is a top-tier ingredient. But not all vitamin C is created equal, and choosing the right form can make a significant difference in results. At HydroPeptide, our formulations are driven by cutting-edge science and technology, which is why we use several different forms of vitamin C across our product line, each tailored to specific skin goals. 

HydroPeptide cosmetic chemist Ian Vitek breaks down three of the most effective types of vitamin C and where you’ll find them in our product lineup. 

1. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Stable, Potent, and Deeply Penetrating 

Used in: LumaPro-COpens a new window, Power SerumOpens a new window, and Collagen ReActivate PMOpens a new window 

“Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative created by esterifying ascorbic acid with hexyl decanoic acid,” says Vitek. “This modification dramatically increases both stability and skin penetration, allowing it to act as a potent antioxidant with brightening and antiaging benefits.” 

Because it’s fat-soluble, this form of vitamin C is able to penetrate the lipid layers of the skin more effectively than traditional ascorbic acid. It’s ideal for formulas designed to deliver long-term benefits such as improved firmness, tone, and reduced visible signs of aging. 

Look for this ingredient in LumaPro-COpens a new window, which targets dark spots and uneven skin tone; Power SerumOpens a new window, a multitasking anti-aging serum; and Collagen ReActivate PMOpens a new window, which stimulates, supports, and shields healthy collagen production while you sleep.

2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Water-Soluble and Acne-Fighting 

Used in: Firma-BrightOpens a new window 

For a vitamin C that plays well in water-based formulas and offers acne-fighting benefits, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is the standout. “This formula contains 20% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C derivative stabilized by a phosphate group and salt,” says Vitek. “Clinically, it’s proven to be a strong antioxidant, effective at skin lightening, and helpful in combating acne.” 

Thanks to its stability and gentle nature, this form is excellent for sensitive or breakout-prone skin types. It brightens while supporting a clearer, more even complexion—making Firma-BrightOpens a new window a great option for those dealing with both dullness and blemishes.

3. Pure Ascorbic Acid: The Gold Standard—Preserved for Maximum Potency 

Used in: Firming Vitamin C Mask 

Ascorbic acid is the most bioavailable form of vitamin C, but it comes with a catch: It degrades quickly when exposed to air, light, or water. That’s where HydroPeptide’s innovative dry-dot technology comes in. 

“Our Firming Vitamin C MaskOpens a new window uses 100% pure ascorbic acid, delivered through patent-pending dry-dot technology,” explains Vitek. “Because ascorbic acid is highly prone to oxidation, the formula is lyophilized (freeze-dried) to halt degradation and preserve potency.” 

This method ensures that you get the full benefits of pure vitamin C—powerful antioxidant protection, boosted collagen synthesis, and targeted treatment of hyperpigmentation—right when you activate the mask.

Why HydroPeptide Doesn’t Use Other Forms of Vitamin C 

With so many vitamin C derivatives on the market, you might wonder why HydroPeptide doesn’t use common options like Ascorbyl Palmitate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP). According to Vitek, these ingredients don’t deliver the performance HydroPeptide looks for. 

“We’ve chosen not to incorporate derivatives like Ascorbyl Palmitate and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate,” he says, “because they convert too slowly to active L-Ascorbic Acid in the skin, and there’s limited clinical data supporting their effectiveness in humans.” Plus, he adds, “Ascorbyl Palmitate has a relatively large molecular size, making it unlikely to penetrate the stratum corneum, while MAP has demonstrated low bioavailability.” 

That’s why HydroPeptide focuses on vitamin C forms with proven stability, superior skin absorption, and robust clinical support—like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and pure L-Ascorbic Acid.

So, Which Vitamin C Is Right for You? 

Each form of vitamin C offers unique benefits, and the best one for you depends on your skin’s needs: 

  • Choose Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate for deep absorption, long-term anti-aging, and improved radiance.
  • Go with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate if you want antioxidant protection with added acne-fighting power.
  • Use Pure Ascorbic Acid when you want the most potent form of vitamin C for targeted brightening and collagen support.

By understanding the science behind these powerful derivatives, you can select the formula that fits your skincare goals—and trust that HydroPeptide’s delivery systems will help your skin get the most out of every drop.