What Do Peptides Do for Your Skin?

What Do Peptides Do for Your Skin?

Posted by Sophia Goldberg on

The search for effective ingredients in skincare can be intimidating, with ever-changing trends sending mixed messages about what you really need in your routine. Peptides have recently become a popular topic with skincare brands, but this buzzy category of ingredients isn’t new to the skincare scene. Peptides are a powerful spectrum of ingredients that can make a significant, positive impact on your skin health, but it’s important to understand how they work to make sure you’re incorporating them correctly into your routine.

What are peptides in skincare?

“Peptides are short strands of 2-100 amino acids — essentially fragments of proteins — which can act as cell signalers, changing cellular behavior by influencing gene expression,” says Dr. Lauren Jamieson, MBChB MRCGP, a medical aesthetic doctor with 15 years of experience. Amino acids act as the building blocks of (many essential) proteins, and peptides string them together to target specific cell processes that affect the skin. “This stimulates pathways to treat the source of aging and other problems in the skin, not just the symptoms, meaning they are a powerful tool for anti-aging.


What are the benefits of peptides?

Peptides can take on many different roles in skincare, depending on the formulation. “Peptides in skincare can treat lines and wrinkles, skin laxity, pigmentation, acne, and sensitivity,” explains Dr. Jamieson. “Essentially, any process of concern in the skin is likely to be improved by using appropriate targeted peptides.”


Types of peptides

There are many different forms of peptides, but the most popular types are:

  • Signal Peptides: These peptides signal to skin cells that they should increase the production of collagen, elastin, and other youth-boosting proteins.
  • Carrier Peptides: Deliver crucial ingredients like copper and magnesium to your skin that support key functions like wound healing, collagen production, and more.
  • Neurotransmitter Peptides: Relax the muscles that cause fine lines and wrinkles using similar properties to injectable neurotoxins.
  • Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides: Work to slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin.
  • Growth Factor Peptides: Aid in repair processes of the cells, encouraging faster cell turnover. They’re found naturally in the skin but decrease as you age.

Peptides in anti-aging

One of the most popular and effective uses of peptides is in anti-aging formulas. Most forms of peptides can be utilized to either increase collagen production, improve skin’s elasticity, or slow down collagen degradation.

“Peptides help maintain the skin's structural integrity,” says Ian Vitek, cosmetic chemist at HydroPeptide. “This regulatory function is crucial for a variety of skin processes such as wound healing, skin elasticity, and reducing the appearance of fine line and wrinkles.”


Peptides and the skin barrier

The skin barrier is the topmost layer of skin made up of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids your skin naturally produces to defend against environmental damage and moisture loss. As we age, that barrier can degrade and thin, leading to accelerated signs of aging. Because peptides are smaller than proteins, they’re able to penetrate deeper to work beneath the surface of your skin, making them perfectly suited to support the lipid barrier. Peptides can target inflammation, defend against free-radical damage, and mitigate oxidative stress, thus decreasing common stressors that can compromise the skin barrier.


Peptides for treating acne

“One of the most significant presentations I see in clinic is acne, and it’s something I’ve experienced personally in the past,” says Dr. Jamieson. “I love using products with Granactive ACNE, a clearing peptide that works synergistically with ingredients like salicylic acid to clear pores and kill acne-causing bacteria.”


Peptides work better with other skincare ingredients

Peptides can do a lot to improve the appearance of the skin when used on their own, but they are most impactful when paired with ingredients that provide additional benefits not ideally managed by peptides. “Peptides by themselves are not great for skin exfoliation, cleansing, antioxidant protection, or hydration rates,” says Vitek. “This is why pairing peptides with ingredients like AHAs, gentle surfactants, antioxidants like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or retinoids can maximize desired benefits.”


Are peptides safe during pregnancy?

Peptides aren’t normally considered dangerous to use during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

“Generally, peptides themselves are considered safe for use in pregnancy,” says Dr. Jamieson. “They can be very helpful to help manage some of the changes seen in skin as a result of the hormonal shifts, such as dryness, sensitivity, and pigmentation.”

That said, Dr. Jamieson does recommend checking with your doctor before you start using any new products while pregnant. “Some of the accompanying ingredients that can be found in peptide-based skincare might not be safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding, so it’s essential to consult with your doctor to make sure you and your baby are safe,” she says.”


Incorporating peptides into your skincare routine

So you’re ready to incorporate peptides into your routine, but where do you start? “Peptides should be straightforward to add into your routine,” says Dr. Jamieson. “Focus first on your main skin concern and use appropriate peptide-containing products that will target that concern.”

Remember, once you’ve found the right products, consistency is key.

“Peptides do not provide immediate results; instead, they gradually condition the skin into a new epigenetic state that maximizes the production of key structural proteins,” says Vitek. “Consistent use is essential to properly condition your skin for the desired benefits.”

With so many peptide products on the market, it can be difficult to determine which products will have a noticeable effect. To find something that really works, it’s important to consider the ingredient percentage to make sure it’s at clinically effective levels. “Lots of brands contain peptides, but peptide percentage is key,” says Dr. Jamieson. “Brands like HydroPeptide use peptides at clinical levels to maximize impact to the skin. HydroPeptide has a synergistic and proprietary approach to product formulation and each unique peptide is supported by ingredients to aid, amplify, and optimize cell signaling.”

Pro tip: If you already have a basic skincare routine, start by incorporating a peptide serum, as serums are generally most concentrated with active ingredients.

Best practices for layering peptides

Depending on what product you’re using, the instructions for application and layering are much like any skincare product. “Application techniques will depend on the product and your skin's sensitivity,” says Vitek. “However, it is generally recommended to apply products gently and evenly across the desired area.”


3-step starting routines based on your skin concerns:


Peptide products that help with fine lines and wrinkles:


Peptide products that help with dryness and irritation:


Peptide products that help with acne:


Peptide products that help with hyperpigmentation: